Day 1: 2/8/20
This trip started out as a consolation for not getting my dram job with the Human Rights Campaign. One of my closest friends, Amber, had booked a solo tour for these dates. When I found out that I didn’t get the job I texted her asking if I could join. She didn’t hesitate to say yes. I just had to work around the dates of the ticket she already had. I was very flexible on the scheduling, so it worked well for me! I just needed to find the best deal to get to Delhi.
I was able to book my flight using my United Miles I had accumulated over the last year or so. I didn’t want to spend every mile I earned, so I took a rather circuitous route to get here. Flying on Ethiopian Airways, I flew from Houston to Togo where we had to refuel. I was able to stay on the plane in Togo which was nice. It reminded me of my time on the Island Hopper, United’s glorified airbus service that takes people to the states in the South Pacific. However, the Boeing 787 was significantly more comfortable than the 737 used on that route. From Togo we headed to Addis Ababa.
Using miles, I found a decent (not the greatest I’ve ever found though) deal for first class round trip. I’d never flown on Ethiopian Airways and looked up their Cloud9 business class. The reviews held pretty true. The hardware was dated but the service was great. Unfortuantely from Houston to Addis Ababa they had an angled lay flat seat. I was able to get a significant amount of sleep an felt semi rested when we landed.
For my four hour layover in Addis, I went to the lounge there. I was treated to some fantastic traditional Ethiopian food which included a lamb curry and injera, a sour sponge bread, like if sour dough and a pancake had a baby. The lounge was a step above waiting in the general boarding area, had free WiFi and food so I was very content spending my time there.
The flight from Addis Ababa to Delhi was a little more comfortable in that the seat was upgraded to a true lay-flat seat. As this was a red-eye I was worried I wouldn’t be able to sleep much since I did sleep the entire flight from Togo to Addis, but thanks to melatonin, my fears were unfounded. I ate the simple yet delicious meal of chicken and yellow rice, then promptly passed out.
I woke up with about an hour left in the flight and changed out of my pajamas back into my regular clothes. By the way, if you ever are flying more than 5 hours, I HIGHLY recommend packing pajamas and changing for the majority of your flight. I didn’t feel gross like I had been wearing the same underwear for the last 24 hours. It’s the little things folks…
Arriving in Delhi was simple enough. I deplaned and walked about a mile from the gate to customs. I had applied for an e-visa prior to departing the US. Another pro-tip, especially for my millennial friends: always, always, always print out confirmations for anything having to do with customs. You won’t be able to use your phone in the customs area so if you’re counting on an electronic confirmation, you’re SOL.
I was through customs and had my bag in about an hour after landing. I had arranged a car service to pick me up with the tour operator who will be taking us around India. The driver and I took another 30 minutes to locate one another, but once we did, he was able to get me to the hotel safely, which, for those who have never been to Delhi, is quite a feat.
The drive to the hotel was my first true experience seeing what it was I had gotten myself in to. Amber wouldn’t be getting to India for another 24 hours so I was on my own for the day. While I have traveled quite a bit by myself, Delhi was an intimidating city for me. The chaos of the roads, the sheer number of people, and the absolute poverty I saw made me apprehensive for how I was going to spend my first day.
I vowed to myself that I wouldn’t just waste it in my hotel room though. Instead, around 12:30pm I headed to Cannought Place, on the recommendation of my step-sister. She said it was a great place to find lunch and do some shopping.
I ordered an Uber, which ended up costing $2, and was at Cannought Place in 20 minutes. I didn’t have a specific place to go so I was wondering. I must have looked lost (and very American wearing my Mickey Mouse t-shirt), as a local started talking to me. I was nervous because I didn’t want to be taken advantage of, but this gentleman didn’t seem to be like the street hustlers I’d experienced in Egypt or Morocco. Instead, he informed me that most of the shops and restaurants were closed because it was election day and folks were voting. He instead, suggested that I walk a block or so and then take a rikshaw to a market where I can get traditional Indian clothes and hand-crafts. I wasn’t super hungry and wanted to blend in a little better than I clearly had been, so I hopped in and 10 rupees later, I was at the bazar.
The bazar was interesting. It was not dissimilar to other bazars I had been to, in that they had different sections, one department selling rugs, another hand crafts like painted camel bones or papers from the era of the British Raj that had been decorated with elephants or peacocks. What interested me was the clothing. After entertaining a few of the salesmen from the aforementioned departments, I made it to the one area I wanted to: clothes.
Being an American of a certain size, I wasn’t hopeful that they would have anything ready made that would fit me. I was pleasantly surprised. However, I didn’t I really found myself wearing traditional Indian clothes beyond this trip so I couldn’t bring myself to buy the tunics I tried on. However, there were very comfortable, stylish and ostentatious silk button ups that I did see myself in.
The gentleman helping me mentioned they could make custom shirts if I didn’t like the fabrics, so he took me inside and showed me what they had to offer. I settled on a bright red and gold paisley and a navy blue floral for two custom shirts. What I wanted more than clothes howver, was cloth.
I had walked by gorgeous quilts and wanted to know if they sold cloth for quilting. He said yes and brought me in to a room full of bolts of gorgeous prints. I could have easily purchased a meter of every bolt in there, but my budget wouldn’t allow. Instead I settled on these rich red and cream batiks and a few meters of gold silk. I am not sure what I’ll be doing with those fabrics just yet, but I am not wanting for ideas.
On my way out, I stopped and looked at the pashminas. Since I am traveling with my best friend and we’ll be here over Valentine’s day, I decided to buy her one. I was also advised by my step sister that it was probably a good idea to get her one just in case we visit more culturally conservative places. She doesn’t know what I bought her yet, but I’m excited to give it to her!
After making my purchases, I stepped outside to find another rikshaw, as I had been in there for an hour and wasn’t expecting the man who took me there to still be waiting. But India is full of surprises and he was there. I hopped back in his rikshaw and asked him to take me to a good restaurant where I could get traditional Indian food.
He did not disappoint. The restaurant, called Sandoz, was everything I wanted and more. I ordered paneer (Indian cheese), bhatti chicken and naan stuffed with more paneer. I felt like I was incepting my food, wrapping cheese stuffed naan around cheese. It was everything I wanted and everything I needed in my first culinary experience in this incredible country. And the best part is what would have cost me $40 in the states cost me $12 here.
After lunch, I looked for Vikram, my rikshaw driver. He was there with another gentleman and a different rikshaw. He told me that his rikshaw had to go to the shop, but his brother would take me back to the hotel. I did have to make on stop to get an MacBook air charger since I left mine in the states like a dope. His brother said no problem and off we went.
We were heading back around 3:30pm which apparently is heavy traffic in Delhi. The brother said I should go check out these markets and kill some time so the traffic dies down. I was starting to feel jet lagged but figured saying yes would be more fun than saying no, plus I had nothing else to do. I also didn’t want to get back to the hotel too soon because I needed to stay up. So we headed to more bazars.
What I quickly learned is that every bazar I went to has the same type of things for sale. Carpets, traditional Indian clothing, hand painted or carved crafts, and jewels. Having just spent a small fortune on cloth, I wasn’t in the mood to buy anything else. After entertaining the salesmen from the first three bazars, I had to politely but firmly insist we head to the hotel. Vikram’s brother asked if he could show me a few monuments on the way and I said that was fine.
We went by several landmarks that I have no doubt I will see on my tour of Delhi, including a gorgeous and large Sikh temple, a monkey temple, Parliament and the presidents House. We also stopped by the India gate. I’m sure I will describe those more in detail once I have cultural and historical context for them.
After about 45 minutes of site seeing, I was yawning pretty regularly so we headed back to the hotel. For the rest of my night I stayed in my hotel reflecting on the day I just had and the journey upon which I am about to embark.
My first impression of this country can be summed in four words: crazy, chaotic, amazing, and wonderful. Despite the poverty and pollution, despite the beggars and stray dogs, despite the overwhelming amount of privilege I recognize I carry with me, I am excited for what I will see, taste, and experience while being here.
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